Salneval Rías Baixas 2009

The "value" label from Condes de Albarei is always a good bet. Oceanic aromas and a spritz of lime make the nose just right, and the lively palate of lemon, melon and banana is charged up. Tight on the finish, with citrus and almond skins, and then a lasting impression of pineapple. Young and raring to go.

This crisp white offers pear, green almond and herbal flavors that are focused, even a bit austere. A good wine for oysters. Drink now.

Light gold. Spicy pear and floral honey on the nose. Open-knit orchard fruit flavors are a tad hard-edged, picking up a dry citrus pith note with air. Finishes with good juicy persistence and a hint of white pepper. Just a touch pinched for me.

Yellow-gold. Ripe pear and white peach aromas are sharpened by citrus zest and minerals. Vivid orchard and citrus fruit flavors are fresh and juicy, but the wine displays an essentially gentle texture. Finishes impressively long and precise, repeating the citrus note and picking up a dusty minerality. Delicious stuff.

Pear, banana, vanilla and floral notes mingle in this soft white. This is harmonious, featuring just enough acidity for balance. Drink now.

Salneval is the so-called baby Albariño from Condes de Albarei, and it's lively and complete. Aromas of honeydew and peach nectar are appropriate and welcoming, while the apple, orange and pineapple flavors are fresh and agile. A wine for salads and seafood.

Wet and zesty white wine from Northwest Spain? Sounds good to us. Salneval is from Condes de Albarei, and it offers perfectly proper peach, melon and pastry aromas. The palate is lithe and fresh, with orange and apple. Yes, it's straightforward and common. But it is also clean, balanced and will drink well with all sorts of finger foods, salads and seafood.